Visiting Yaizhou Milin: My First Intimate Encounter with Tibetan Medicine

　　Due to the nature of my work, I’ve traveled to Tibet four times over the past two years—yet even that hasn’t been enough to satisfy my curiosity. On several of these trips, my companions or tour guides almost invariably recommended: “If you’re looking for an old Tibetan doctor, head to Shannan; if you’re after Tibetan medicine, go to Nyingchi.” Tibetan medicine? Tibetan herbs? The very mention evoked a sense of mystery and excitement, sparking an irresistible urge to explore further. Filled with boundless imagination about the magical world of Tibetan medicine, I set off once again on a solo journey to Tibet in September—a time when the mountain valleys of Tibet are awash with colorful blooms, and local Tibetan communities are busy harvesting crops and gathering medicinal herbs. My destination was Milin County in the Nyingchi region, famously known as the “Medicinal Island.” In Tibet, it was once again the simple, ever-smiling Tibetan brother—Laba—who welcomed me.

　　The Treasures of Tibetan Medicine, “Available Everywhere”

　　Starting from Bayi Town, it takes about an hour by car to reach Milin. According to Lhaba, Milin County, located in the southeastern part of Nyingchi, has long been renowned as the “Medicinal Island” for two main reasons: First, the county boasts an unparalleled abundance and superior quality of Tibetan medicinal plant germplasm resources—resources that simply cannot be matched elsewhere. Second, the Tibetan name for Milin itself means “Medicinal Island,” and moreover, Milin is the birthplace of Tibetan medicine, which has a history spanning thousands of years.

　　Milin belongs to the plateau temperate subhumid monsoon climate zone. Except for slightly colder winters, its climate is similar to Guangzhou at other times of the year. Thanks to its unique geographical location in high mountain valleys, the climate and vegetation exhibit a distinct vertical zonation. Warm currents from the Indian Ocean enter via the Yarlung Tsangpo River, creating a special climate where subtropical, temperate, and frigid zones coexist. The abundant rainfall and diverse climatic conditions provide an ideal ecological environment for the growth and distribution of wild medicinal plants. Milin is home to 3,768 plant species and as many as 680 large fungal species, according to Laba’s introduction.

　　Starting from Milin County and heading south, you’ll reach the Nanyi Gou Scenic Area in Nanyi Township after about 3 kilometers. As you step into the pristine forest of Nanyi Gou, you’ll feel as if you’ve entered a fairyland—half real, half dreamlike. Here, ancient trees tower skyward, Tibetan medicinal herbs are everywhere, wild flowers bloom in vibrant colors, and an ethereal aura seems to linger all around. Along mountain streams and beneath small trees, Tibetan medicinal plants are abundant: angelica, salvia miltiorrhiza, poria cocos—just pick them up whenever you like. My Tibetan brothers who joined me on this journey warned me repeatedly to be extremely careful while walking—not to step on the wild mushrooms growing by the roadside. Those seemingly unremarkable little mushrooms could very well turn out to be precious Tibetan medicinal herbs. As I walked along, stepping on the thick layer of fallen leaves, I was suddenly struck dumb by a patch of brilliantly flourishing yellow peonies right before my eyes.

　　Most of these peonies stand as tall as a person. Their deep-yellow flowers bloom in dense clusters, brimming with vitality and lushness. Laba told me that these are wild yellow peonies—species on the brink of extinction. From their flowers and leaves to their rhizomes, every part of the plant is medicinal. They’ve become exceedingly rare elsewhere in the world, and Zagon Gou is now the only place left where they can still thrive. These precious wild yellow peonies are being cultivated on a large scale by Qizheng Tibetan Medicine Co., Ltd.—Tibet’s leading Tibetan medicine enterprise—which has invested considerable human and material resources into their propagation. Beyond successfully rescuing this endangered medicinal herb, Qizheng Tibetan Medicine has also established a Tibetan medicinal plant domestication and conservation base, where many other valuable Tibetan herbs, such as Pulsatilla chinensis, Tibetan sweet flag, and Tibetan musk, are protected and nurtured. A completely personal recommendation: Qizheng’s Tibetan medicinal plant domestication and conservation base is located right in Nanyi Gou. The tiny seedlings grown in greenhouses and the Tibetan herbs raised outdoors in their natural habitat together create a truly unique landscape. Friends interested in Tibetan medicine should definitely pay a visit to this remarkable place.

　　The birthplace of Tibetan medicine, where "harmony between heaven and humanity" originates.

　　Continuing our ascent along the winding mountain path, we passed two of the earliest sites for teaching Tibetan medicine—each corresponding, from lower to higher, to undergraduate and master’s degree levels—and finally reached the sacred site where prayer flags flutter in the breeze: Ganlu Cave. Ganlu Cave is a natural rock cavern said to be the place where Yutö Yönten Gonpo, the founder of Tibetan medicine, practiced asceticism, treated patients, and trained his disciples. At that time, this cave served as the highest institution of Tibetan medical learning—comparable to today’s doctoral programs. It was here that Yutö Yönten Gonpo completed his monumental medical work—the “Four Medical Tantras”—a text that has profoundly influenced generations of physicians to come. Today, the cave still preserves murals depicting this great master of Tibetan medicine, which visitors can admire. All around the murals hang white khata scarves. Spring water flows down from the top of the cave and seeps through cracks in the rock walls—water that is revered by Tibetans as “divine water.” Legend has it that just one sip of this spring water can cure all ailments and grant longevity. Moreover, the 108 springs within this cave correspond precisely to the 108 different diseases that they are said to treat. Thus, this cool, year-round spring—a source of eternal refreshment—becomes the perfect reward for our arduous journey.

　　After descending the mountain, we returned to Bayi Town and stopped for the night. Along the way, we saw many people hurrying to pay their respects. Laba told me that these local residents have become accustomed to visiting the hall of Qizheng Tibetan Medicine Factory before 9 a.m. and after 5 p.m. to worship Yutuo Yuan Dan Gongbu, the founding father of Tibetan medicine. The Qizheng Tibetan Medicine Linzhi Pharmaceutical Factory is located in the urban area of Linzhi. Tourists interested in Tibetan medicinal culture and modern Tibetan medicine should definitely take a moment to stop by. As the largest Tibetan medicine enterprise in the Linzhi region, Qizheng Tibetan Medicine Linzhi Pharmaceutical Factory employs mostly local Tibetans. If you’d like to visit, these friendly Tibetan colleagues will gladly guide you personally and provide you with detailed explanations. Here, the essence of Tibetan medicine—rooted in the “Four Medical Texts”—is seamlessly integrated with cutting-edge modern technology, finally unlocking the mystery of how millennia-old Tibetan medicine can serve modern humanity.

　　TIPS:

　　Visitors to Milin might as well pay a visit to the local Tibetan medicine clinic to have their body’s condition—whether it’s cold, hot, deficient, or excessive—diagnosed and learn about appropriate self-care methods. If you’re suffering from challenging conditions such as rheumatism, stomach cancer, or cirrhosis, you could also try asking the Tibetan doctors to prescribe a few herbal remedies tailored to your specific ailment. Tibetan medicine boasts remarkably effective treatments for these complex diseases, and what’s more, the prices are very affordable.

　　The Milin area boasts stunning scenery, but its terrain features dramatic elevation changes. If you plan to hike here, it’s advisable to bring along a few “Qizheng Pain-Relieving Plasters” in advance. According to local residents, this ointment is remarkably effective for treating sprains and bruises.